HISTORY: This Tokyo brewery dates back to the samurai era.
It’s sake, the traditional rice wine of Japan.
But the industry is grappling with decades of declining sales at home, as locals turn to cocktails and other alternatives.
Brewers are now hoping for a boost after UNESCO officially recognized the process of making the drink as intangible cultural heritage.
This decision was taken on Wednesday during a meeting of the UN body in Paraguay and was welcomed by the representative of Japan, Takehiro Kano:
“Being recognized internationally in this way will renew interest among ordinary Japanese in this field, which could provide further impetus to efforts to pass on these skills and know-how to the next generation. »
Back in Tokyo, Koichi Maesako is the head brewer at the Ishikawa Brewery.
He says the sake in this vat will be ready in about a week.
It is made with ancient techniques which are the basis of the UNESCO list.
This includes using a special culinary mold called koji.
And the use of a unique three-step fermentation process.
Maesako says there is precedent that gives hope that UNESCO’s decision could help sales:
“Since our food was classified by UNESCO, Japanese cuisine has spread throughout the world. I hope the same thing happens with sake. Our brewery is experiencing an increase in exports and we hope that the UNESCO listing will accelerate this trend and lead to greater growth in overseas sales.
But falling domestic demand is not the only challenge facing Japanese sake brewers.
Unseasonably hot weather also led to a poor rice harvest, which affected the quality of the grain and pushed up prices.
This made it difficult to produce an affordable product.
Now, inscription on the UNESCO list – the 23rd for Japan – could prove a timely boost.
With exports already on the rise, sake brewers hope their drink can follow sushi in conquering global markets.